In October, we ate well. There was a Tuesday afternoon spent pairing our steak knife with our beef, a Saturday biting into an orange as a suckling pig palate cleanser, a Thursday spent indulging in 23 courses of ingredients we couldn't quite pinpoint, and of course a Friday reserved for the finest tacos in town. October was for new flavours, textures, and experiences. These were our favourites.
For Mexican: Thrift Taco at Dona
Throughout the month of October, wafts of fresh coriander and smoked spices drifted through Stoke Newington's beloved mezcal bar. Thrift Taco had a stint at Dona, and it was a raging success from early days. Just one week into the residency, the good word had spread already. With not one empty table in the house, hungry couples and friends eagerly awaited their serving of corn tortillas and spicy margs. Many raved about the 'fish and chips' tostadita, understandably so. The bold choice of citrus-y bream, buttery peas, and curry sauce paid off. For us, the stand out dish was the suadero tacos. Depending on who you ask, suadero can refer to a specific cut of beef or the cooking technique, one that sits somewhere between a simmer and a confit. According to head chef Bryn "it’s an incredibly difficult dish to master, equal parts patience, texture, and timing." After eating their way through Mexico City, the suadero stood out as one of the best for them, and so this dish is their homage to one of Mexico City’s greats. With a chargrilled crisp on the outside, and a tender slow-cooked interior, you can taste every bit of effort that's gone into perfecting it. Washed down with a smoky, spicy margarita with a whisper of salt on the rim, this is one of our stand out meals from the month of October. We'll be sad to see Thrift Taco go, but given the high praise of London locals, we have a sneaky feeling this isn't the last we'll be seeing of them. (Keep your eyes peeled for the 4th of November).
For Portuguese: Luso
A vibrant yellow marks the spot of this new, two-story Portuguese restaurant on Charlotte Street. The bustle of an open kitchen and friendly chatter pours out of the front door. Glance up, and you'll see the silhouette of couples dining intimately in the window seats upstairs. Luso is the perfect balance of elegant and effortless, with an energy that radiates the start of the weekend, no matter what night you visit. The kitchen is led by Head Chef Kimberly Hernandez with the creative input of Portuguese chef Leo Carreira. The menu is designed to be shared, with an array of petiscos to start and a wonderful selection of traditional sea and land dishes. Don't underestimate the grilled chicken. Butterflied, wood-fired, and perfectly juicy- it's nothing short of wonderful. The suckling pig is recommended, and rightfully so. A theatrical serving of pork that is roasted to such perfection, the crisp is glass-like while the meat underneath falls apart with the tug of a fork. It's served with a rich sauce and crackling for dipping, and as is done in Portugal, slices of oranges to bite into afterwards to cleanse the palate.
For an Experience: Punk Royale
You may have already heard whisperings of Punk Royale. Despite it's Mayfair location, it transcends the boundaries of fine-dining to the point where eating with one's hand is encouraged. In fact, one of the dishes is spooned into your mouth by your kind waiter. Punk Royale is 23 courses of sheer experience. It's, loud, chaotic, and unforgettable- despite the lack of documentation thanks to the no phone rule. The flavours range from decadent and rich to downright bizarre (the course consisting of a singular broad bean could be considered the modern art of cooking.) A welcomed break from telling your waiter how you'd like your steak, Punk Royale is a culinary journey where one must release all control, and it may just be Mayfair's most stand-out addition yet.
For Steak: Liverpool St Chop House
Mike Reid, formerly Le Gavroche and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, is leading the food at Liverpool St Chop House, where nothing is done by halves. From the selection of butters, served in a liquid form to encourage dipping, to the traditional roots infused with gourmet quality, every moment spent at this restaurant is a lavish one. The scotch egg swaps the casing of sausage meat for smoked haddock, the crumpets are topped with a rich, delicate blend of beef and bone marrow, and the steaks come displayed in an impressive glass case with a selection of handcrafted knives to pair with. The meat is sourced from the Ethical Butcher's farms, who raise cattle in natural herds. This is turn allows them to exhibit natural, stress-free behaviours, a rare sight in modern farming. The result? A cut of beef so buttery soft it will remain etched in your mind for days to follow. From the Grade II listed building that houses the restaurant to each opulent dish that emerges from its kitchen, this is a place where one goes to step back in time and eat like a king.
For a Sunday Roast: The Coach Makers Arms, Marylebone
As we approach the colder months, a Sunday in London brings with it a certain smell in the air. Local pubs, upscale restaurants, family homes, all emitting the same waft of sizzling oil and beefy gravy. It's roast season. And while there's one available at every corner, not all are crafted equally. There are certain criterion for a roast to meet, and a recent visit to The Coach Makers Arms ticked every box. Nestled into the heart of Marylebone, a rustic pub filled with locals and their labradors is on the ground floor, where one can whet the appetite with a pint of perfectly-poured Guinness. Upstairs is an elegant, art-deco styled dining room with light spilling in from the over-sized windows. Fresh oysters come at £4.50 each, and the roast is served family style on a generous platter for tables of four or more. Juicy beef, a mountain of golden potatoes, roots, greens, fluffy Yorkshire puds, and a boat of luscious gravy. There is no better ending to a weekend.
For a Tipple: Godet
In October of 2024, a new opening came to Essex Road. One year on, and Godet's transformation of a Victorian neighbourhood pub into an understated yet stylish space has proved quite a success. Fulfilling North Londoners' needs for the atmosphere of a pub with an offering of a wine bar, the menu goes beyond merlots and sauvignon blancs. The weekly list can vary, but is known to include a tangy orange, a chilled red, sparklings, as well as an extensive list of bottles. Every Friday, there’s a vinyl DJ to get the party started, and Ling Ling’s will be serving their delicious modern Chinese menu of snacks and big plates. Your new local just got better.
