Hearty stews, buttery spuds, and a pint of the black stuff- Irish cuisine is best served on a dreary day in the nook of a cozy pub. The faint smell of spilt stouts and damp wood combines with the aroma of beef stock and steamed cabbage to create a dining experience that seems to be inherently Irish. And it is, for the most part. However, modern Irish cooking is reimagining the classics with refined skill and elegance. Despite a more attractive presentation, in the words of the pacesetter, Chef Anna Haugh, "the heart of the dish is still there." Anna's restaurant, Myrtle, is named after Myrtle Allen, a woman who’s impact on Irish produce, Irish hospitality, and Irish food culture is, according to Anna, unmatched. As two Irish girls raised on bacon and cabbage, we ventured to Chelsea to get a taste of fine Irish dining for ourselves.
As we stepped through the door, we were met with a greeting that had a certain, unmistakeable Irish-ness to it. The fine-dining, esteemed status has no impact on the genuine warmth and good humour of the staff, an attitude that emanates throughout the restaurant. This comes as no surprise, as Myrtle holds the charm of Irish hospitality at its core. It's described as a sense of 'Failte', an Irish word which translates directly to 'welcome', however, according to Anna, "it's more so, 'Ah, you've arrived'". We felt instantly at home.
We were there to try the 'Taste of Ireland Menu', 6 courses to prove that Irish fine dining should, in fact, exist. To begin, were meaty oysters from Carlingford, drizzled in a signature lemon dressing. Despite it being a Wednesday afternoon, we thought it rude to decline the pairing of a glass ofThe Trouble with Dreams, a sparkling blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from a label owned by Limerick-born Dermot Sugrue, Sugrue South Downs. As we sipped and slurped, we couldn't help but notice the perfectly-rounded slices of bread, which Anna later revealed to us have a story behind them dating back to 2019, before the restaurant's time. Anna was prepping for a meal she was cooking for a pop up in Selfridges, serving some (very) reputable guests, when she realised that she didn’t have any uniform bread tins. Quick on her feet, she ran to the shop, bought tins of baked beans, emptied them, and used the tins to bake the bread in, giving them a perfectly round form. The tins are still used to bake the perfect rounds of bread served in Myrtle today. This is what you can expect from Myrtle; everything on the table tells a story, even the bread basket.
The Bia Beag, (an Irish take on an amuse bouche) was a nectar-thick cream of pasteurised goats cheese from St Tola, potato, and leek. Presented as a vibrant green dish garnished with a dainty blue borage flower, the taste was as beautiful as its aesthetic. What briskly followed was an impressive looking assortment of Clonakilty black pudding coated in a crisp potato skin, served with a barley, pecan medley and an apple purée.
Next up, was the poached wild seabass served with smoked mashed potatoes and a burnt Irish butter sauce. To sip on, we were served a refreshing glass of Chablis, a full-bodied white that perfectly complemented the richness of the butter sauce with dry, mineral notes. Our final savoury dish of the day was a sirloin of Irish beef, a juicy cut that melted in the mouth, drizzled in a confit shallot and tarragon jus. To our delight, it was served with Boxty, a traditional Irish pancake, with a twist. One bite into Anna's Boxty revealed a filling of succulent beef that oozed out, blending into the pancake's cheesy coating- a far cry from the kind served in a full Irish breakfast.
Needless to say, at this point we were sufficiently satisfied. However, no meal is complete without a hit of a little something to satisfy the sweet tooth. In this case, the something was generous, a rectangular slice of Guinness cake served with coffee-flavoured cream, and an assortment of toffees to finish.
Upon completion of our 6 courses, we could confidently vouch for Irish fine-dining as a force to be reckoned with. Those comfort foods so commonly slapped up in Irish homes, take black pudding and Boxty for example, are given an entirely new identity as a delicacy. Celebrating the ingredients of Ireland, from the natural sugars of vegetables to the produce of family-run farms, Anna and her team deliver a memorable experience for every person who is lucky enough to walk through the door. Myrtle is Irish dining at its very finest.
For bookings, visit the website: https://www.myrtlerestaurant.com/
