A strip of of beautifully dressed shopfronts, art galleries, and chocolatiers; St John's Wood High Street would make the perfect setting for a rom-com. After a stroll around The Regents Park, the restaurant in which the protagonists rekindle over a glass of wine would be in the local favourite, Cinder. We find ourselves here this evening, as a less romantic pairing of two rumbling stomachs that have already scrutinised the menu on the tube from work. Those sat around us give the impression of very fortunate neighbours that have one of London's finest dining rooms on their doorstep. The atmosphere is relaxed, yet upscale. A sense of effortless popping-in, but with high standards.
Owner and Head chef Jake Finn comes to talk us through the menu. He has worked in London's finest restaurants including La Petite Maison and The Ritz, however these days he prefers to serve a heartier fare. Whilst many restaurants take the concept of 'small' plates far too literally, Finn's dishes are designed to be shared, with portion sizes that can be shared. We sip on our Cinder martinis as he explains the flame-cooked element of the menu. In fact, can we taste a whisper of smoke in our cocktail? It was not a trick of the mind- Jalapeños are charred over the hot coals then peeled and blended into the tequilla concoction. The smokiness is subtle- like the dishes on the menu, the prep has been kissed by the flames of the Josper Oven, so as to not suffocate the fresh flavours that take centre stage.
And so, we begin our meal with the hispi cabbage and stone bass crudo. The cabbage tastes refreshing and clean, as though as it has been pulled fresh that day. It has- the restaurant has its very own rooftop garden where the vegetables are grown. It is served with chilli, red onion, and pine nuts, a medley of flavours that combine seamlessly. The wonderfully meaty stone bass lay in a pool of vibrant, zesty "chile water", and was hidden under a delicate layer of pickled kholrabi. Another deliciously refreshing dish with clean, sweet notes, cleared in a matter of minutes.
Moving on to the larger plates, the charred cauliflower arrives first. When studying the menu (admittedly a few days prior), this was a dish we overlooked. How good can cauliflower be? Turns out, quite phenomenal. It came quite literally drenched in a creamy mixture of hot sauce and whipped parmesan, yet somehow, unbeknownst to us, the florets remained firm and intact, and the crisped cauliflower was still a large component of the flavour profile. The portion was generous, so generous in fact, it took a significant chunk of time to finish. A plate of two boneless chicken thighs followed; succulent, smoked and served with a zesty chimichurrie to cut through the juicy, charred flavours.
Finally, there was the cedar plank salmon. One bite, and we realised we never truly experienced the notion of 'cooked to perfection' until now. It's in the name. The meaty, marinated salmon is placed upon a plank of damp cedar wood, and slid into the Josper grill. The heat evaporates the water from the wood, gently steaming and infusing the salmon with a smokey flavour as it roasts. It is served with mouth-wateringly sweet pickled cucumber and shallots. To the naked eye, it would appear to be a plate of simple, unfussy food. And that is why we taste with our mouths.
To finish, crème brûlée. A crack of the caramelised skin reveals creamy custard underneath, nothing short of perfect. Cinder is a restaurant that gives us reassurance that London's food scene is not doomed by undeserved hype. It is unassuming, local, and perhaps one of the best meals we've had to date.
