After time spent in vain attempting to crown cauliflower as 'the new steak', it seems as though we have finally come to terms with the fact that it is not. No matter how much oil is smeared, heat is blasted and salt sprinkled, the succulence of a tender piece of beef cannot be imitated by a vegetable. But it is not just the juicy cuts that we've missed, it's the dark-wooden decor, the tables dressed in crisp white linen, and the pairings of red wine and whiskey. Much like a counter-top seat in a bustling Chinatown or a late-night walk-in at a family-style Italian, a reservation at a city-centre Chop House is its entirely own dining experience. It's lavish and indulgent, designed for a special occasion. So, when we were invited to escape the confines of the office and spend a Thursday afternoon at Liverpool Street Chop House, we accepted the offer with open arms.
Under CEO Martin Williams, The Evolv Collection have reimagined the classic Victorian chop house and city tavern with a modern twist. Working with the brand historian Ron Cregan (known for his work with brands like Mulberry and The Maybourne Group), the final result draws inspiration from 17th and 18th-century London's simple, functional beauty, with dark wood pallets, crisp white linen, and elegant brass and gold details. It's not just the interiors that are inherently British, The Evolv Collection have partnered with The Ethical Butcher to offer a menu of entirely British-sourced meat.
As we settled into our designated spots on the crimson banquette seating, we quickly realised we had the best seats in the house: either side of head-chef Mike Reid. Mike, who was at M with Martin Williams, as well as Le Gavroche and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, is leading the food here and spoke seamlessly through the dishes, from the flavour combination to the purpose of each ingredient. Nothing is done by halves, and everything has a reason behind it. The selection of butters, served with dark sourdough, are presented in a liquid form to encourage dipping, rather than spreading. It's lavish, indulgent, and undeniably superior.
Our feast began with a scotch egg and crumpets. Simple enough, you might think. However, this scotch egg swapped the casing of sausage meat for smoked haddock, and was served with a hot apple mustard made in house. Meanwhile, the crumpets were topped with a rich, delicate blend of beef and bone marrow. The traditional roots are there, there's no doubt about it. They are simply infused with gourmet quality and made with the finest ingredients the British market has to offer.
The primary focus is the meat, and the impressive glass display case of marbled, bone-in Rib Eye and Chateaubriand proves it. The Ethical Butcher's farms treat their cattle well, with many calves raised by their mothers, feeding only on natural pasture. Being raised in natural herds allows the cows to exhibit natural, stress-free behaviours, a rare sight in modern farming. It doesn't go unnoticed- the rib-eye was buttery soft, oozing with rich juices. When ordering steak at the restaurant, you will get a choice of one of six handcrafted steak knives from Blenheim Forge, each one is as intimidatingly sharp as the next. With cuts as tender as these, it likely doesn't make much of a difference which you're drawn towards. Regardless, it's a very nice touch.
We were then presented with a pigs head. At the head of the table, Chef Reid portioned it up with a spoon. Needless to say, this was our first time being served meat so soft, it could be cut with a mere scoop. Brined for 24 hours, slow-cooked for a further 24 hours, then finished on a high heat to create a of a thin coating of crackling- this was Chef Reid's pièce de résistance of his Victorian feast. And rightfully so.
The feast wrapped up with a dessert commonly reserved for the classic Christmas line-up. A welcomed break from the global phenomenon that is pistachio, the trifle was composed of layer after layer of nostalgic delight. From the moment we sat down until the very final bite, the meal was an evocation of tradition and history. Liverpool Street Chop House & Tavern is not a place where you will find QR-coded menus or calorie counts beside each dish. From the Grade II listed building that houses the restaurant to each opulent dish that emerges from its kitchen, this is a place where one goes to step back in time and eat like a king.
While we sipped on the remnants of French wine and the waiters cleared our plates, we thought smugly of our colleagues refuelling on meal deals back at the office.
