In a world where 'No Laptop' signs cling to the windows of cafés and reservations come with strict time limits, the monthly fee for a members' club starts to seem somewhat justifiable. Beyond the doorman and the grand oak doors, time seems to cease to exist. Nobody rushes you. In fact, perhaps you'd like another coffee? The interiors are as aesthetically pleasing as the array of pastries and juices, to be consumed around a central fireplace, or at a sleek mahogany bar. Fashion Week attendees sit alongside business associates, who sit alongside those dressed in activewear but smelling of roses. It's an atmosphere of equal parts glamour and sophistication. As we sank further into our pillowy seats, we wondered if any of our neighbours, who sat spaciously around the room, were also frauds. Were they, too, imposters? Mere passers-by who had somehow slipped through the door? Because anyone can enjoy this club, just nobody seems to know about it. Celeste is the Estelle Community's first public restaurant, and we went to have a look.
At Celeste, the doorman wears a trendy bomber and a beaming smile. Step inside, and you are further greeted with a luxurious woody scent, likely from one of the ateliers that are part of Notting Hill's colourful strip of boutiques. The sleek, New York-esque bar is all mahogany, gold accents and records lining the walls. It's the kind of setting that might inspire you to order your very first martini, only to discover you haven't quite acquired the taste for straight gin. With it being before nine in the morning, we swatted such ideas away and made our way into the courtyard. Skylights flooded the room with the light of a crisp, blue-skied morning, made cosy with the centrepiece fireplace. We'd assumed an early Thursday booking would give us free rein to take as many photos and videos as we pleased, without the shame of an audience. Instead, the place was already bustling with people who seemed very much accustomed to starting their days like this.
We, on the other hand, were not. We ordered coffees to buy ourselves some time and pore over the menu. Twenty minutes and zero pressure later, we opted for the egg white frittata, the Benedict rösti, and an açai bowl, for good measure. After we'd mentioned our allergies, the waitress returned with a plate of what appeared to be freshly baked buckwheat bread, so fluffy and doughy that I had to double-check it was gluten-free. I shouldn't have doubted our waitress, she truly didn't miss a trick and one slice quickly turned to three. The frittata was easy to devour. It arrives looking immense, stretching across the entire plate, but proves surprisingly light. The mild Robiola adds a welcome richness without overpowering the freshness of the courgette and spinach filling. The rösti is the dish to order to make others at the table jealous. The potatoes are a welcome swap for brioche, forming a crisp, golden base for layers of pancetta arrotolata and perfectly poached eggs, all finished with a generous drizzle of hollandaise. As for the açaí bowl, it comes beautifully prepared with a perfectly positioned array of banana, berries, and nutty granola on top. Is it necessary as a side? Perhaps not, but Celeste isn't the kind of place where one thinks of necessities. It's the type of setting where one slowly makes an imprint into their seat, grazing away until breakfast turns to lunch, and lunch to dinner.
Unfortunately for us, we had an office to return to. After a luxurious two hours, we strolled down Ledbury Road towards the Tube and back to reality. Despite having stayed far longer than intended, we appeared to be the first to leave. The food alone is reason enough to visit Celeste, but it's the impeccable service and unhurried atmosphere that make you want to stay. Every detail feels and is considered, from the beautifully presented breakfasts to the staff who seem to anticipate your needs before you do. It's a rare sort of place where you're made to feel like a regular on your first visit, and where two hours can pass without so much as a glance at the clock. Members or not, we'll certainly be back.
