Back in 18th century, Parisian fuel-stops began to develop into social hubs decked out with grand interiors, hanging chandeliers and theatrics. Over the 150 years that followed, the concept of a restaurant has been a constantly evolving one. London’s recent obsession has been the kind with small plates and even smaller elbow room but today, we're happy to announce the return of glamour. We seem to want everything in excess again. The big, the bold, and the beautiful.
One might wonder what has revived the appetite for a spectacle. For some, it may be attributed to the current cost of living. If we're going out to spend a hefty chunk on dinner, it makes sense that we want it to be in a setting that is nothing less than a dazzling display. For others, it could be the chase of nostalgia, the yearn for the slick glamour of a 60's night out fuelled by martinis. Whatever the reason, evening-wear has made a resurgence and with it, has come a taste for a special setting. Where can one acquire such a setting? Funnily enough, the answer is Spitalfields.
Founded in Paris by Nina and Alexis Melikov, Tigermilk is a Latin-American restaurant group that has taken Europe by storm. The latest of its 13 locations is in Spitalfields, which opened its doors in May. It's the second of its kind in London, the other being on Tottenham Court Road, which arrived to a never-ending queue of hungry hopefuls snaking around the corner. The Spitalfields restaurant is built for the hype Tigermilk has come to expect, with a whopping 280 seat count. The space is designed as a hacienda, and making your way to the table is an experience in itself. Inspired by the grand estates of Cuernavaca, the interiors are grand, theatrical and extravagant. Through the courtyard, a terracotta-tiled space with earthy paint and greenery creeping along the edges, under the arches to the central dining space, where you can't help but guffaw at the six-metre tequila bar, radiating with over 2000 red and orange-hued bottles. If your table isn't here, it could in one of the more intimate nooks, the library-style corners, booths and little house-like setups. The accumulation of chatter and clinking from the hundreds of tables creates quite an electric feel for a Friday evening, yet somehow, the space maintains its intimacy.
What's charming about Tigermilk is that despite its swanky setting and East London postcode, the menu is humble. It's one which caters to all, dotted in markings that indicate its friendliness towards dietary requirements. The dishes are given playful names which if one feels foolish repeating, can simply be pointed to. The understanding waitress will confirm, 'one Cauli Me Maybe?'. The cocktail selection is extensive to the point that there are six variations of the margarita, from the classic to the chipotle-infused. We watched our first variation of choice being crafted before us with more theatre than a show in the west-end. Tigermilk doesn't take itself too seriously. It is a French-owned restaurant chain serving Latin-American food to Londoners, and to be quite honest, it's a breath of fresh air.
Latin-American cuisine is always a winner. Who can deny the creamy zest of guacamole, scooped up with the beautifully crisp and salted tortilla chip? However it's not to say that the effort hasn't been applied here. The food arrives looking and tasting vibrant, bursting with colour and flavour from the likes of pickled red onions and bright aji verde sauce. The starters are generously priced at 10 pounds and under, the Tuna Turner being a standout. Why is it named after a music legend? Who knows, but the corn tostada layered with guacamole and marinated tuna is fresh, light, tangy, herby- everything a starter should be.
Then came the Carne Asada, British cured beef flank steak marinated in Tigermilk's secret spice blend before being lightly grilled. The expectations for a steak priced under £20 weren't particularly high, but the cut was juicy, the portion generous and the outside gently smoked for a deep flavour complemented by the chimichurri sauce. It’s the sort of dish that makes a convincing case for ordering another round of margaritas, which we did, this time braving the spicier kind. The salmon a la parrilla (on the grill) was fabulous. A loud, beautiful mess on the plate with the typical sweet and spicy flavours of Latin-American cuisine done very well, and cooked to perfection.
After one too many reservations being squeezed around tiny tables and presenting dinner as a sort of logistical exercise, there is something truly refreshing about a restaurant that wants you to have a bit of a night out. Nobody is rushing you at Tigermilk, there's room for everyone. The food is generous, the setting extravagant, and the margaritas keep coming. If this is what the return of glamour looks like, we’ll happily dress for the occasion.
