Food Network

Where Simplicity and Grandeur Collide: Estiatorio Milos

It's the type of restaurant that will stop you in your tracks. A longing gaze through the floor to ceiling windows into the romantic setting inside, letting out an "ooooh" as a subtle hint to your significant other. Estiatorio Milos leaves a lasting impression before you even enter the grand establishment. When the time arrives and finally, it's your turn to experience it, you'll make your way through the oversized wooden door that has been opened for you by a gracious doorman, to reveal a space that is exactly how you imagined. Striking, stately, with waiters elegantly manuevering around each-other. However, the food atop of the platters they carry is somewhat contrasting to the setting. No frills, no fuss, just simple, natural ingredients that seamlessly fuse Greece's slow-paced connection to nature with London's most regal, metropolitan side. Estiatorio Milos is the best of both worlds.

In the centre is a majestic display of fish, otherwise known as the Milos fish market. Unlike those of the neighbouring boutiques, this display isn't all for show. On a bed of ice lay the usuals, from john dory and dover sole to sardines and langoustines, as well as the ones you've likely never heard of. Regardless of how extensive your fish knowledge, the waiter explains each one in layman's terms. We opted for the balada, a wild fish from Portugal, juicy with soft flesh. 

As we returned to our seats, our waiter appeared with freshly baked bread and what appeared to be a household plant. As he chopped its leaves into a pool of olive oil, I realised it was coriander- a nice touch.

Onto the starters, where we bravely ordered the octopus. Octopus possesses a dangerous potential to ruin a meal, and there is a very brief list of places where I would recommend it. Estiatorio Milos now sits firmly in first place on this list. Served on a bed of fava, the meat was tender and almost buttery, cooked to perfection. Alongside it came a Greek salad (with an impressive portion of feta cheese) and half a dozen oysters. A delightful spread of food that set us up wonderfully for the main event.

Our balada arrives, butterflied and grilled, with olive oil, lemon juice, capers, and parsley. The beauty of Greek food lies in its focus on ingredients, and Estiatorio Milos brings that philosophy seamlessly to London. Five ingredients and minimal fuss, it was divine. 

In the end, Estiatorio Milos isn’t just a restaurant, it’s an experience. From the moment you look up at the high ceilings to the last bite of creamy Greek yoghurt, every detail feels thoughtfully considered. The grandeur of the space contrasts with the simplicity and freshness of the food, proving that extraordinary ingredients need no embellishment. It’s a place that leaves a lasting impression, and one which we can wholeheartedly recommend to anyone seeking the very best of Greek food in London.