There are two things that can lure you into a restaurant. The first is the irresistible smell that seeps out through the vents. Whether its artificially pumped or genuine, it is the bait and we are the hungry bream. The second is the vibe. The low-lighting, clinking of glasses, and hushed chatter that we have evolved to become suckers for. I would argue the second as more effective, as not even the scent of freshly baked dough can redeem a desperate host shaking an image-based menu in the faces of passersby. What's more, when I stepped out of Peckham Rye station and was met with a retro-hued space with wine bottles lining the windows and a soft beat pulsing through the door, the vibe alone immediately lead me to consider ditching my commitments. Luckily for me, a glance at the illuminated menu revealed that this was, in fact, my location for the night. We had arrived at Hausu.
It's the type of place you'd feel proud of suggesting. It's chic and sultry, without losing its local neighbourhood feel. It's driven by siblings, the fiery menu led by Chef Holly Middleton, and listening-bar concept shaped by her older brother, Tom. The menu is that of the sharing, multi-plated kind, a template many are beginning to resent. However, this is one I would confidently recommend to the most traditional of eaters, dare I say even my Irish parents. The dishes are eclectic and exciting, one such example being the prawn toast. Typically confined to the realm of the Chinese take-away, the instantly-recognisable menu item it is elevated with fluffy bread piled high with a prawn and scallop mousse, smeared in sesame seeds and fried for that original crisp we all know and love. It's nostalgia, elevated, and pairs perfectly with a beverage from Tom's equally creative cocktail selection, specifically the Sour Apple Mezcal Margarita.
Other must orders include but are not limited to, the scallop, sourced locally from Wrights Bros. It's served with the roe still intact, providing an often-detached hit of rich, sweet flavour, fire-grilled and left to bathe in a shell of XO sauce made in-house.
Equally memorable is the salt cod, served atop a bed of aioli with sweet datterini tomatoes and fresh agretti. A combination of bright Mediterranean flavours, it feels especially transportive when enjoyed with a cool breeze drifting through the slightly ajar window on a summer’s evening. From Peckham to Provence.
The sommelier arrived to pair our larger plate with something light and crisp while the kitchen worked its magic on the fish. The turbot we opted for came served with a seaweed butter sauce made from butter, green chilli, homemade green tabasco, garlic, wakame seaweed, lemon zest and topped with marinated fish roe in smoked oil and a garnish of sea vegetables. No matter what the fish, the sauce remains the same, and works to enhance rather than overpower it. A necessary accompaniment is the potato side, served with miso confit garlic. While the menu evolves with the seasons, the potatoes remain a welcome constant. The humble dish deserves far more attention than its supporting role suggests. Golden, crisp-edged chunks sit in a creamy pool of miso confit garlic, creating something that is nothing short of exceptional.
Should you be disciplined enough not to eat yourself into a sluggish heap, head upstairs to the listening bar, a space designed specifically for vinyl sessions. That’s right, this place really is cool. A vintage high-fidelity sound system anchors the room, with DJs selecting records that move seamlessly from jazz, soul, funk and disco to ambient, house, and world music. A Buttered Rum Espresso Martini serves as the perfect finale. Is it a nightcap? Is it dessert? Perhaps it's a necessary hit of energy before embarking on a chaotic night out in Peckham? That’s open to interpretation. What isn’t, however, is that Hausu sits confidently at the forefront of London’s booming listening bar culture. Whether you arrive for the food, the cocktails, or the music, Hausu ensures you’ll leave having experienced all three, without any one element overshadowing the other.
