How does one mark a special occasion whilst living in London? There's the night away, complete with luggage, check-ins, breakfast included, and a wave of regret when you've snoozed through it. There's the mid-day glass of fizz, providing a fleeting wave of glee that once subsides, leaves a sleepy sluggishness in its place, all whilst the sun is unacceptably high in the sky. Of course, there's the special dinner, perhaps one with a view. A foolproof option, albeit a somewhat impersonal one, regardless of how far you've booked in advance. Which brings us back to the question, what is that plan that perfectly combines a thrill with luxury? Nostalgia with sophistication? Dinner with a certain je ne sais quoi? The British Pullman is the answer, "where every meal is a celebration, every moment is a journey."
The occasion was a 30th birthday. We arose bright and early with an anticipation similar to that of children on the morning of Disneyland. The British Pullman ignites a thrill that a reservation at 7pm could never. At Victoria Station, we were greeted with a Kir Royale and the sound of live song from three singers decked out in outfits straight from the '20s. Mere minutes before, we were pushing our way through the wave of commuters, and just like that we had been transported into the pages of an Agatha Christie novel. Rather than through an audio headset or a dense guide, the British Pullman draws you into history via experience, in recreating the glamour of luxury rail travel.
We stepped on board Vera, originally built in 1932. A plaque read that our carriage was paired with one which was damaged in a Second World War air raid in 1940 and since its restoration, has carried the Queen and Prince Philip. The fittings are mahogany, the brass polished. The tables were decked out in crisp white linen, china crockery and vintage lamps. Every aspect has been carefully considered. We took our pillowy, hand-stitched fabric seats opposite a couple celebrating their own milestone, a 60th. Thirty years separated our occasions, yet the sense of excitement was exactly the same. As the engines began to stir, the first glass of Champagne is served, shortly followed by the beginnings of a quintessentially British feast.
The kitchen is led by Chef Jon Freeman, who has been a part of the British Pullman team for nearly two decades. He worked his way up from junior cook to Head Chef, quickly falling in love with the challenge of cooking incredible produce onboard a moving train. The menu is comprised of produce sourced from the farms and fields through which the train passes. Our train was en route to Kent, home of the Balfour Brut Rosé we sipped on.
To begin, we were served perfectly al-dente asparagus on a bed of whipped ricotta. On top were sheets of roasted beetroot. The dish was simple, letting the ingredients speak for themselves, and seasonality never lies. It was no coincidence that their peak coincided perfectly with our trip in early May.
What followed was a velvety roasted carrot soup with a dollop crème fraîche spooned table-side, served with fluffy, freshly baked rolls and creamy butter, all enjoyed while the rolling countryside slipped past the window, a celebration of spring at its very finest.
At this point, we were approaching the destination where we could step out, take a breath of fresh air and stretch our legs, necessary preparation for the main event. Before doing so, the distant sound of well-trained harmonisation echoed throughout the train. The '20s trio made their way through each of the carriages for a table-side performance. The perfectly pink duck breast followed, served with fondant potato, peas and broad beans, a rich jus tying everything together. The quality of the produce rivalled that which you'd find in a Michelin-starred restaurant. Elegant, sophisticated, and again, very much centred on seasonal British produce.
With the savoury side of the journey over, it was time for the sweet return to Victoria. This came in the form of a delicate vanilla Panna Cotta with poached rhubarb, creamy decadence balanced with the sharpness of the fruit. With the plates clean, we considered ourselves sufficiently fed for 3pm in the day, but it was not over yet. The finale was a British cheese selection accompanied by chutney and oatcakes to round off a fabulous afternoon. By the end, the menu's philosophy was clear: thoughtful combinations, seasonal ingredients and quiet elegance.
We sipped on the remnants of our wine as the countryside rolled out of view to make way for the city's skyscrapers.
So, how should one mark a special occasion in London? The answer, it turns out, is not to travel to an overnight stay or to a restaurant with a view. It is to travel through time. For a few hours, the British Pullman transported us not only through the Kent countryside, but into another era, one of polished brass, crisp linen, impeccable service and top-quality, unhurried dining. Equal parts nostalgia and luxury, the British Pullman serves as a reminder that the journey is every bit as important as the destination.
